Syros is the capital of the Cyclades, with Ermoupoli as its year-round working port town. The island has a stronger year-round local life than many better-known Cycladic holiday islands: no super-club season, no row of beachfront resorts. Most of the south and west coast is within an easy drive; Ermoupoli, the port and airport are around fifteen minutes away.
For guests and for ourselves. In July and August, book restaurants in advance. Beach restaurants usually open through May and close from mid to late September; many are closed October to April.
Traditional Greek taverna with delicious dishes, good wine and great cocktails, overlooking Agathopes beach. Extended lunch menu available seasonally. Also useful for Agathopes beach sunbed rental; parking is limited in the daytime.
European-style beach bar and restaurant with Mediterranean and sushi cuisine. Multiple sunbed zones, own car park. Lively with music early evening; if you want a quieter dinner, book a table after 8:30pm. More expensive than most local options.
Beachside taverna serving Greek fare. Hidden down a steep, narrow track from the main road, with the beach a short walk from the car park. Family-friendly with sandy beach access.
Seafront restaurant with fresh local dishes and seafood. Booking essential in summer.
Fine dining by Chef Bougiouris using local ingredients. Advance booking strongly recommended.
Relaxed beachside venue at Hotel Benois with friendly staff and a long menu.
Modern café with fantastic coffee and croissants by day. Cocktails, evening menu and occasional live music after dark.
Traditional Greek restaurant in tranquil surroundings, with a generous terrace.
Remote, family-run restaurant with stunning hilltop views in northern Syros. The drive is beautiful but steep and winding, so avoid it after drinking.
A tiny Greek restaurant tucked behind Diogenis Hotel. Dining on a cobbled street under bougainvillea.
Along the rocky east coast with sea views from a historic merchant mansion setting. Ciel offers contemporary dining; Sta Vaporia has a more rustic feel.
High-quality dining in the old centre, near the historic main square.
Upscale dining in a relaxed atmosphere with elevated views over Ermoupoli.
The south-west and west coasts are within fifteen minutes of the villa. The north of the island is for hikers and small boats.
One of the closest beaches to the house. Popular, and in summer full of sunbeds rentable from De La Gracia or ONO: book ahead in peak season, arrive before 10am if you have not. Shallow waters suit families.
Sand and fine pebbles, tavernas, bars and a small marina. It can be quite windy here, which makes it less reliable for swimming but good for windsurfing.
Beach bar with music, rentable sunbeds and watersports including kayaking, canoeing and jetskis (Syros Watersports Club). Advance booking recommended.
Smaller than the more popular beaches and hidden down a steep track from the main road, a lovely sandy beach. Parking is limited; the taverna is worth it.
Seaside village resort with shallow, clear water, fine sand and multiple tavernas. Excellent sunset views.
One of Syros' biggest and most popular beaches, with sand and clear water. There is a café, a few boutiques and a hilltop church worth the short hike. A small cave above the beach is said to have been a monk's dwelling. Naturist area at one end.
Unassuming and relaxed, with calm waters ideal for snorkelling. Sunbeds on one side only, small café on the beach. Off-road access required; the northernmost accessible west-coast beach.
Megas Gialos and Vari on the south coast are quieter and worth a day trip. The northern coves, Grammata and beyond, are accessible only by boat.
Most shops are closed on Sundays and public holidays, and typically close at around 2:30pm on weekdays, reopening around 5:30pm. Supermarkets stay open all day.
Good size supermarket with most groceries and a fresh meat counter. Open on Sundays. Has sorted public bins for glass, paper, metal, plastic and organic waste.
Smaller supermarket in Finikas village. Essentials.
Minimart in Finikas with beach and pool items, swimming and snorkelling gear. No fruit or vegetables. Sits in a useful row of shops next to the deli, bakery, butcher and pharmacy.
Excellent pharmacy in Finikas, run by a friendly Italian man and his Greek wife.
Wine, cheese, ice cream and baked goods. Finikas village.
Fresh meat and sausages. Finikas village. Staff do not usually speak English, but pointing at what you want works well.
Small kiosk for milk, coffee, bread, pizza and drinks. Not for a full shop or fresh food.
Fresh seafood caught that morning, on Chiou street in Ermoupoli. Stock sells out fast.
A local department store: building supplies downstairs and a small boutique, toys, homewares and gifts upstairs. The nearest public bins are opposite the entrance.
Syros Adventures, Click&Boat, Sea Tour, Sea Quest. Several operators offer group sightseeing trips, private day trips and skippered charters. Ask whether you can start from Finikas Marina, which is five minutes away.
Kayaks, canoes and jetskis from Syros Watersports Club. Windsurfing at Finikas Bay when the meltemi cooperates.
Northern Syros is remote, rugged and good for hiking. Syros Hikes offers guided routes. Ano Syros is a short, steep walk from Ermoupoli, best done at sunset.
ONO in Poseidonia offers massage and body treatments. Contact ONO directly for availability.
Ermoupoli is the largest town in the Cyclades, known for its 19th-century neoclassical architecture, marble-paved main square, and working port. It operates year-round and rewards a slow evening visit.
The Apollo Theatre and the open-air Apollon cinema on the hillside. The Festival of the Aegean runs through summer with concerts and performances in the main square.
The older, Catholic hilltop town facing Ermoupoli. A short, steep walk up from the port, best done in the early evening with a drink at the top before the sun goes down.
The pedestrianised lanes behind the main square have independent boutiques, jewellers and local food shops. Good for an afternoon wander.
Syros General Hospital is in Ermoupoli, on Pápagou street. Open 24 hours. Tel: +30 22810 96500.
Ermoupoli post office is on Protopapádaki street. Tel: +30 22810 82596.